A Simple Step-by-Step Plan to Paint Your First Mini
A clear beginner guide to painting your first miniature, from priming to the final highlight, with no art experience required.
Painting your first miniature does not require artistic talent or a big collection of supplies. The core process is a short sequence: prime the model, block in your base colors, apply a wash, and pick out the raised edges. That is the whole loop. Everything else is optional detail on top.
This guide walks you through each step in order, explains what each one actually does, and tells you when to stop before you overwork the model.
If you are still figuring out what supplies to grab, take a look at what you need to start painting miniatures before you begin.
Step 1: Prime the Model
Primer is a thin, matte-finish paint formulated to stick to plastic, resin, and metal surfaces. Acrylic paint alone does not bond well to bare miniatures and will chip off easily. Primer gives the paint something to grip.
You can use a spray primer or a brush-on primer. Sprays are faster and give an even coat, but always use them in a well-ventilated area outdoors or near an open window, and follow the manufacturer's instructions on the can. Brush-on primers work fine if you do not have outdoor space.
Most beginners start with grey primer because it sits neutrally between light and dark colors. Black primer deepens shadows automatically. White primer makes bright colors pop. Grey is the safest general choice.
Apply a thin, even coat that covers all surfaces without filling in the sculpted detail. Thin coats over gaps and crevices matter more than thick coverage everywhere. Let it dry fully before touching the model again, at least 30 minutes for spray and longer in humid conditions.
Step 2: Block in Your Base Colors
Base coating means applying a single flat color to each distinct area of the model: the armor, the skin, the cloth, the leather, the metal parts. You are not shading or blending yet. You are just deciding what color each section will be and covering that area cleanly.
Work from large areas to small ones. Paint the big armor panels or robes first, then the smaller details like buckles and pouches. Use a medium-sized brush for broad areas and a small detail brush for tight spots.
Thin your paint slightly with water until it flows off the brush without leaving streaks, but still covers in one or two coats. A roughly two-to-one ratio of paint to water is a reasonable starting point, though this varies by brand and paint consistency. The goal is even coverage with no brush marks.
Do not worry about staying perfectly inside the lines on your first miniature. You will fix any overlap when you paint the adjacent color.
For a full breakdown of what to look for in your first set of paints and brushes, the guide on what you need to start painting miniatures covers this in more detail.
Step 3: Apply a Wash
A wash is a thin, ink-like paint with a low surface tension that flows into recesses, crevices, and the undersides of raised detail. It does most of the shading work for you with almost no skill required.
Paint the wash over the entire miniature or over specific sections you want to shade. It will pool in the recesses and darken the low points while leaving the raised surfaces relatively unaffected. When it dries, the model instantly looks more three-dimensional.
The most common starting wash is a dark brown tone for warm colors and skin, or a dark blue-grey tone for cool metals and armor. Apply it generously enough to flow, but do not let it pool so heavily that it creates a thick, glossy ring when it dries. If that happens, use a clean damp brush to gently wick away the excess before it sets.
Let the wash dry completely before moving on. This usually takes 15 to 30 minutes. The model will look dull and flat when it dries, which is normal.
Step 4: Layer and Highlight
Once the wash is dry, the raised surfaces of the model look slightly darker than before the wash because some of the ink settled there too. Layering means reapplying your base colors to the raised areas to restore their original brightness, leaving the darker wash visible only in the recesses.
Paint the raised surfaces with your original base color, leaving the low points and edges unaffected. You do not need to cover every square millimeter. Leaving the wash visible in the low points is the entire point.
After layering, you can add a highlight by mixing a small amount of white or a lighter color into your base color and painting just the very top edges of raised surfaces. This is called edge highlighting, and it makes the model read clearly from a few feet away on a tabletop.
You do not need to highlight every surface on your first miniature. Pick the most prominent parts, such as the shoulder pads, helmet, or main armor panels, and leave the rest at the layered stage. A targeted highlight on a few key areas looks more finished than a weak highlight applied everywhere.
A Quick Reference Table: The Four Core Steps
| Step | What you are doing | Common mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Prime | Sealing the surface so paint sticks | Skipping it or applying too thick |
| Base coat | Blocking in flat colors by area | Watery paint that does not cover |
| Wash | Flooding recesses to create shadow | Letting it pool in glossy rings |
| Highlight | Brightening raised edges | Overworking and muddying the layers |
Step 5: Seal the Model
A varnish coat protects your paint job from handling and wear. Without it, the paint can chip where you hold the model repeatedly during games or photography.
Matte varnish is the most common choice because it removes the slight sheen left by acrylic washes and leaves a flat finish that looks natural. Satin varnish is used for leather and smooth surfaces. Gloss varnish is sometimes used as a base under washes to help them flow more smoothly, then covered with matte afterward.
As with spray primer, use spray varnish in a well-ventilated area and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Brush-on varnish works well if sprays are not practical in your space.
One thin coat is usually enough. Let it dry before handling the model.
For everything that comes after the paint job, including basing, the how to start painting miniatures beginner guide covers the full picture from choosing a model through finishing touches.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to thin my paints?
Yes, but not excessively. Slightly thinned paint flows better, covers more evenly, and does not obscure fine sculpted detail the way thick paint does. A small amount of water, enough to make the paint flow freely without becoming transparent, is the right amount. If the paint covers in one coat but leaves no brush strokes, you are in good range.
Can I skip the primer?
Technically yes, but the paint will adhere poorly and chip much faster. On a first miniature you plan to handle often, skipping primer means the paint work may not last. It takes less than ten minutes to apply and makes a real difference in durability.
How do I know when my miniature is finished?
A practical rule: the model looks good when you hold it at arm's length. Tabletop miniatures are meant to be seen from a few feet away, not under a magnifying glass. Once the base colors, wash, and at least one highlight pass are done, the model is playable and presentable. You can always revisit it later for extra detail.
What if I make a mistake?
You can paint over nearly any error once the paint dries. A slightly thin coat of the correct base color covers most mistakes cleanly. If you get paint in a deep recess that should be shaded, the wash will help blend it in. Miniature painting is very forgiving because each layer is thin and correctable.
How long does it take to paint a miniature?
A single infantry-scale miniature using this four-step process typically takes between one and three hours spread over two sessions, accounting for drying time between steps. Your first miniature will take longer because you are making decisions as you go. The process gets faster as the steps become automatic.